Change of Seasons

The outdoor temperatures are steadily dropping (down from the mid-90s to the mid-80s), though I still walk around with a small sweat moustache almost everywhere I go. Jip often asks for a blanket. She’s not alone: once the thermometer dips into the 70s, many Thais dig into the back of their closets and pull out extra layers.

Lately the weather has seemed unable to decide. It’s been strong sunshine in the morning, followed by a good downpour in the afternoon and sticky humidity in the evening. But just a few days ago, at a ceremony in the country’s most famous temple, the prince formally changed the clothing worn by the emerald buddha.

In case I had missed that sign of the “cool” season’s overdue arrival, department stores and hotels today drove home the point by putting up Christmas trees, or at least hanging ornaments from the palms outside their front doors. I saw at least half a dozen of them on my way home.

At the bus stop, a woman wearing a wool scarf was coughing and looking miserable. Tonight’s predicted low: 71°.