Secrets of a Mangosteen

A special pleasure in May and June is the mangosteen. This fruit’s eggplant-dark rind contrasts shockingly with the white segments inside. Who would guess, cutting one open for the first time, that bleached little pillows would be hiding in there? The taste surprises too. To my tongue it’s a cross between a grape and a peach. Few flavors are nicer.

But choosing a good specimen is tricky—part timing, part luck. When a mangosteen is past its prime, the segments get browner and sourer. Trouble is, you can’t know for sure without slicing into it. The outside doesn’t change much with age.

Unopened mangosteens do give away one secret, though. The number of small brown petals on the bottom matches the number of pillows. Every time. Makes a great party trick.